Selecting the Perfect English Rose
For a lot of folks, October is pretty
much the end of the gardening season and there are only a few cleanup tasks
remaining. However, if you’re lucky and live in warmer climes, there’s still
time to plant roses and a few other things like garlic and lettuce (which I
plan to do this evening, in fact).
Fall really is the best time to plant
roses. It gives them the entire winter to settle into their spot in the garden
and prepare for a lovely spring.
David Austin’s English Roses are
becoming more popular every day since they have a reputation for being easy to
care for and bloom fairly freely during the growing season. Unfortunately, many of them don’t always
behave and conform to the growth habits promised in Austin’s literature when
grown in warmer areas. A good number
throw up very, very long canes which
can overwhelm a small or medium-sized garden very quickly.
From my own personal experiences,
I’ve learned to read rose descriptions very carefully and make adjustments for
our warmer climate. My local area falls between U.S. zones 7 and 8, where the
ground never freezes solid, and I can grow lettuce and radishes under floating
row covers during the winter. Roses that grow medium-sized in England are often
large here in North Carolina. The varieties listed in this article are older
ones, but I wanted to stick to roses that I have grown.
The following is a very brief
description of a few Austin roses, classed by size, which may be helpful when
planning fall purchases. These are roses
that I have personal experience with and know can be grown here in coastal
North Carolina. Don’t forget: new roses
don’t necessarily have to go into the ground if your garden is already
full! You can grow beautiful roses in
large pots, as well, so you can always find room for one more specimen.
Special note: we’ve discovered that
large pots of roses do very well around pool areas, particularly pools used by
folks who like to belly-flop or cannonball and splash water
everywhere. The reason? The heavily chlorinated pool water lightly splashing
the roses seems to cut down on powdery mildew and even black spot! I’m not sure
I’d actually spray the roses deliberately with pool water, but the occasional splashing
does seem to help.
Small
Roses
These roses will stay small--no more than three feet in height and perhaps that same in width. They will not throw up large canes, so you generally won’t have to worry about cutting them back except to remove dead or diseased wood.
These roses will stay small--no more than three feet in height and perhaps that same in width. They will not throw up large canes, so you generally won’t have to worry about cutting them back except to remove dead or diseased wood.
v Ambridge
Rose (1990); pale apricot pink; fragrant
v Charlotte
(1993); clear yellow; slightly fragrant
v Charles
Darwin (2001); tawny yellow; slightly fragrant
v Cymbeline
(1983); grayish pink; fragrant
v Dove
(1986); pale pink; fragrant
v Immortal
Juno (1992); medium pink; fragrant
v Mary
Rose (1983); medium pink; fragrant
v Miss
Alice (2001); Light pink; fragrant
v Molineux
(1994); yellow with apricot tinge to some center petals; fragrant
v Noble
Antony (1995); wine red; fragrant
v Pretty
Jessica (1992); medium pink; fragrant
v Prospero
(1982); deep red with mauve undertones; fragrant
v Queen
Nefertiti (1988); apricot blend; fragrant
v Sharifa
Asma (1989); pale pink; richly fragrant
v Wife
of Bath (1969); warm pink; richly fragrant
v Wise
Portia (1983); wine-red; fragrant
Medium Roses
These roses will grow into medium-sized bushes--no more than five feet in height and smaller in width. They will not throw up large canes, so you generally won’t have to worry about cutting them back except to remove dead or diseased wood, although you may want to trim them back to keep them within the constraints of your garden.
These roses will grow into medium-sized bushes--no more than five feet in height and smaller in width. They will not throw up large canes, so you generally won’t have to worry about cutting them back except to remove dead or diseased wood, although you may want to trim them back to keep them within the constraints of your garden.
v Chaucer
(1981); pale pink; fragrant
v Golden
Celebration (1992); deep yellow; slight fragrant
v Hero
(1983); clear pink; semi-double
v Lilian
Austin (1981); salmon-orange; semi-double
v The
Dark Lady (1991); pinkish-red; fragrant
v The
Nun (1987); white; semi-double (tulip-shaped); slight fragrance
Large Roses
These roses will grow into large bushes and can often be used as climbers. They may throw up long canes. Most likely, unless you have a very large garden, you’ll have to train them as a short (8’) climber or trim them back. They make great pillar roses, though, if you want to add height to your garden by placing them in the middle or back.
These roses will grow into large bushes and can often be used as climbers. They may throw up long canes. Most likely, unless you have a very large garden, you’ll have to train them as a short (8’) climber or trim them back. They make great pillar roses, though, if you want to add height to your garden by placing them in the middle or back.
v Abraham
Darby (1990); Apricot blend; fragrant
v Bow
Bells (1994); Medium pink; semi-double (shaped like tulips); slight fragrance
v Graham
Thomas (1983); deep yellow
v Heritage
(1984); light pink; fragrant
v Jude
the Obscure (1995); apricot; fragrant
v L.D.
Braithewaite (1988); Crimson
v Mayor
of Casterbridge (1997); light pink; medium-sized blooms; slight fragrance
v Othello
(1986); dusky crimson
v St.
Swithun (1994); pale pink; very fragrant
v Winchester
Cathedral (1988); white; fragrant
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