Organic Rose
Gardening
Bucking
Conventional Wisdom and Doing the Impossible
A lot of folks have expressed an interest in converting their garden
over to a more organic approach to user fewer pesticides or other
chemicals. I’ve been doing this for some
time now and have learned a few lessons--the hard and very expensive way--so I thought it might be worthwhile to share.
My main focus here is on roses, but most of the hints are also useful
to all kinds of gardens, including vegetable gardens.
Why grow roses organically? There are a
lot of reasons. My own included the
following:
- Our well, which
supplies the water we drink, is right dead center in the garden. I don’t particularly want to drink the
stuff folks spray on roses.
- We are an official
National Wildlife Federation Habitat which means we provide food, water
and shelter for birds and small animals.
I don’t want to endanger the wildlife nesting in our roses by
spraying them right in the middle of breeding and nesting season
(spring/early summer).
- I travel for work so
I’m frequently gone for a week at a time and don’t have a lot of time to
spend spraying.
- Our dogs have been
known to eat our roses. In the
fall, they eat the hips they can reach.
I’d rather not poison them, if I can help it.
- We occasionally eat
the roses and hips. Rose hip jelly
tastes a lot like apple jelly and is a good source of vitamin C. I also like sugared rose petals on
yellow cake, or rose petals sprinkled in a salad made of fresh spinach
leaves, mandarin oranges, toasted almonds, spring onions and a red wine
vinaigrette dressing. Mmmmm, tasty.
So now that you know a few excuses (other than I’m lazy and don’t feel
like spraying) let’s discuss how to actually accomplish this and still have a
fairly nice garden. This is possible, despite black spot and our
hot, humid summers in the south-eastern-most tip of North Carolina, but it does
take a little compromise.
Step 1: Buy Liz Druitt’s book, The Organic Rose Garden. It is written for southern gardeners and is
one of the best resources I’ve found on organic rose gardening. It is a superb little book.
Step 2: Your roses will need a really
good home if they are to survive organically.
This means lots of water, a
decent bed rich with organics, plenty of mulch, at least six hours of sunshine
a day, and no root competition.
The number one reason why organic rose gardens fail is that the roses
are simply not given a good home. They
are struggling in the shade of some huge tree, competing for water and food,
and don’t get enough sun. If you correct
this situation, a lot of roses (and other sun loving plants like veggies) can
be grown organically and will shrug off black spot as if it is nothing.
Step 3: Don’t plan on growing a lot of
Hybrid Teas. You are lucky to be living
today when we have David Austin’s beautiful English (shrub) roses which are
remontant (reblooming) and can easily take the place of the Hybrid Tea
roses. There are also the Old Garden
Roses, some of which cannot be sprayed or they will not do well.
There is a list of roses at the end of this article which I have
successfully grown organically in this area.
Now for the nitty-gritty...
Going organic doesn’t necessarily mean not spraying at all. If you have roses that suffer black spot, you
can reduce it using organic methods.
Black Spot
Organic methods will not provide a cure for black spot, so get
over the idea.
What you can do is try to prevent it, or reduce it.
Here are the basic steps to take to reduce black spot.
- Remove all leaf litter
from the roses in the winter (this should include infected leaves which
dropped last summer.)
- Spray with a dormant
oil. Yes. This is
considered “legal” if you are doing organic gardening.
- Provide a thick layer
of mulch.
- During the growing
season, pluck badly infected leaves off the roses to remove the source(s)
of infection.
- Provide enough
water. Water, water, water. Make
sure the water is on the ground,
not on the rose’s leaves if you water in the evening.
- Spray with a mixture
of 1Tbsp Baking Soda per gallon of water, plus horticultural oil. In the summer, you can spray with just
the 1Tbsp Baking Soda per gallon of water, but do it in the morning. This mixture will kill new spores, which
will help prevent infection, but won’t kill existing infection.
- Keep the bed heavily
mulched. We use pine straw. Anything, including grass clipping, will
work. Just note that if you add
grass clipping, you will need to add a source of nitrogen because
decomposition will temporarily rob your roses of nitrogen while the
clippings decay.
Planting
·
Dig a hole twice as wide and twice as deep
as the container of the plant you are planting.
For most roses, dig a hole 36 inches wide and 20 inches deep.
·
Mix the dirt as follows
This “recipe” is built around our soil which is gray
clay, acidic, and lacks almost all nutrients.
We basically have to build the soil.
I prefer to create the bed with this stuff in December/January, let it
sit for a month or two, and then plant roses in it during February.
o 1/3
- 1/2 of the top dirt dug from the hole (move the bottom-most dirt aside)
o Several
cups of Gypsum
o 1-2
cups of Lime (I need this, you may not, depending upon the acidity of your
soil)
o 1/2
cup Epson Salts
o 3-4
cups of Cotton Seed Meal (Alfalfa Meal is better, but occasionally hard to get)
o 1
bag of soil amendment (looks like finely shredded bark)
o 1
bag of mushroom compost
o 2
cups sharp sand
You can add any other soil conditioners you need. Ones I like to include
occasionally are: Kelp Meal, Bone Meal, Blood Meal, etc. If you have a source for horse manure, marry
them or at least get heavily involved so that you can get a constant
supply. If all else fails, pay the guy
to deliver in the fall and spring. Or
start raising dwarf horses.
Now that you are ready...
Once you have prepared your beds for your roses and are
ready to take the plunge, you will need to purchase some roses, or at least
acquire some which stand a good chance of survival.
Personally, I prefer own-root roses, so I buy almost
exclusively from two sources: Roses Unlimited and Chamblee’s. Chamblee’s in particular is my first choice
since they are about half the price of everyone else.
I’ve never had a rose from either of these sources die on
me. They are sent in large pots and the
roses are always in good shape.
Here are varieties I have had very good success with and
seem to have very little problem with disease.
I have focuses mostly on remontant varieties, rather than listing the
once blooming Old Garden Roses.
Bourbons
Souvenir de la Malmaison
This rose stays short-3’ tall, never needs
to be trimmed, blooms constantly, and has exquisite blooms in pale pink. Very fragrant. It is particularly
disease-resistant.
Noisettes
Reve d’Ohr
This is a HUGE rose, so be warned. It is a good climber. It will take over any support unless you keep
it trimmed back. Beautiful pale, buffy
yellow flowers. Blooms constantly. Very
disease-resistant.
Tea
Marie Van Houtte
Very large shrub (6’x6’) with beautiful
creamy white flowers that age to pink.
Blooms constantly. Very disease-resistant.
Duchesse de Brabant
This rose stays fairly compact-4’ tall,
never needs to be trimmed, blooms constantly, and has exquisite blooms in medium
pink. The flowers are shaped rather like
a tulip. Very disease resistant. This was one of Teddy Roosevelt’s favorite
roses and he often wore one on his lapel.
English
Wise Portia
Small, tidy bush. Stays about 3’ tall and never needs to be
trimmed. Gorgeous deep magenta
flowers. Blooms constantly. This is a wonderful rose paired with Souvenir
de la Malmaison.
Lilian Austin
Coral blend, loosely double flowers. Blooms constantly. The form stays short, but it “weeps”. If you have the room for it to sprawl, it is
lovely left as a loose fountain shape.
Otherwise, you can trim back the flexible shoots.
Wife of Bath
This rose stays short-3’ tall, never needs
to be trimmed, blooms constantly, and has exquisite blooms in pale pink. Very fragrant. It is very similar to Souvenir de la Malmaison,
except the flowers are smaller.
Noble Antony
Small, tidy bush. Stays about 3’ tall and never needs to be
trimmed. Gorgeous magenta-red
flowers. Blooms constantly.
St. Swithun
Pale pink globular flowers. Blooms constantly. The form stays medium height, but it
“weeps”. If you have the room for it to
sprawl, it is lovely left as a loose fountain shape. Otherwise, you can trim back the flexible
shoots.
Climber
Dortmund
Single blooms in fire-engine red with a
white center. Glossy green leaves. Large clusters of blooms. Blooms continuously. Extremely
disease-resistant.
And of course, the Gallica as well as many others of the
Old Garden Rose classes do not require spraying and are resistant to black
spot. My favorite Gallica is currently
sold as ‘Sissinghurst
Castle’ and looks exactly
like a crumpled piece of deep magenta-purple velvet.
Good luck and I hope you have success with your rose garden
in the coming year.
And of course, I have to mention that in my Regency mystery, A Rose Before Dying, Ariadne grows all her roses organically.